Wondering about replacing the MB on my rifle

[Kingfish]

I recently acquired a POF Rogue in 308. It came with a propriatory single chamber brake with two small jet taps at 12 o'clock so finding any effectiveness testing on it is not available. While I think it does a good job of reducing recoil, you still get pushed off target pretty good since the rifle only weighs 6#. I am wondering if upgrading it to a Precision Armaments M4-72 which appears to be at the high end of the scale for recoil reduction. Just trying to figure out if the juice is worth the squeeze.

PRECISION ARMAMENTM4-72 Severe-Duty Brake​

 

[conditionzero]

For shoulder firing or mostly prone/bench? I would want something with top ports if I was shouldering it.

 

[Kingfish]

For shoulder firing or mostly prone/bench? I would want something with top ports if I was shouldering it.

This is strictly for defensive style close in use. I have put mil type iron sights on it to keep the weight down. Just want to get back on target quickly.

 

[conditionzero]

I would probably get the EFAB, M11, or Hypertap. Because you are not strickly worried about rearward recoil but also muzzle rise.

 

[ClintC]

This is what I would go with if your having issues with muzzle rise.

https://risearmament.com/product/rise-armament-ra-701-ar-compensator/

Hypertap® Muzzle Brake

Upgrade to the best performing AR15/Bolt Action muzzle brake at up to 84% recoil reduction. Offered in over 40 caliber and thread options, see it in action.

precisionarmament.com

 

[JEVapa]

I've tested a bunch of different MDs when I was still in, like real life testing and assessment for the USG (that was my job). Haven't really bothered with them since I retired because most are gimmicky and the ones that work well are just copies of copies of copies. You can only do the same thing over and over so long before it all starts repeating itself.

I will say this:
The best MD for flash and recoil mitigation we ever assessed was the PWS FSC series. They have since changed the design and sold off the original to FN and someone else. The shit you get on end of a SCAR is the Original FSC.
That said, any MD that has those characteristics will probably work really well. Blows gas up and to the rear at about a 45° and keeps it away from TDC...flash suppression is always good too...omnidirectional doesn't affect your shot. Believe it or not, the standard A2 birdcage is one of the best compensators out there. The aren't fancy or flashy, cost $9 and work almost as well as some those super spendy cheesgrater knick knacks.

Little holes on top tend to fuck up your shot if there's a tight bore tolerance because the gasses will act like a jet...it's always better to have an oversize MD bore to avoid that. Vertical ports also throw flash and gas in the LOS, just remember that when using thermals or NV.

Just remember, because it costs $180 or more doesn't mean it's better, it just means it costs $180+. Most of those companies machine various bullshit into their copy so as to avoid a lawsuit from some other company that machined some bullshit into their copy, rinse and repeat.

 

[HoLeChit]

I agree with what @JEVapa says, and he's the dude in the know.

I've personally moved away from brakes in have found myself sticking with flash hiders. I prefer a2 style and its clones, this is my current favorite:

6315KM-S, .223 / 5.56mm-6315KM-S, .223 / 5.56mm

Pretty much an A2 with a wire notch and a QD mount.

People typically hate hearing this, and I hate to be that guy, but I'm gonna be him. I have personally found that training and practice are the most effective ways to control recoil and get back onto target faster, over a muzzle device. Maybe drop the money you would have spent on a muzzle device or two on ammo, revisit fundamentals, then practice, practice, practice? Just my $.02.

 

[Trekrok]

I agree with what @JEVapa says, and he's the dude in the know.

I've personally moved away from brakes in have found myself sticking with flash hiders. I prefer a2 style and its clones, this is my current favorite:

6315KM-S, .223 / 5.56mm-6315KM-S, .223 / 5.56mm

Pretty much an A2 with a wire notch and a QD mount.

People typically hate hearing this, and I hate to be that guy, but I'm gonna be him. I have personally found that training and practice are the most effective ways to control recoil and get back onto target faster, over a muzzle device. Maybe drop the money you would have spent on a muzzle device or two on ammo, revisit fundamentals, then practice, practice, practice? Just my $.02.

But it says you aren't supposed to torque it on with a screwdriver in the slots - so how's a person supposed to tighten it??

 

[HoLeChit]

But it says you aren't supposed to torque it on with a screwdriver in the slots - so how's a person supposed to tighten it??

With a wrench on the flats?

 

[Trekrok]

With a wrench on the flats?

I suppose that's an option. I like how they also go further and explain why you shouldn't use a screwdriver as a torque wrench.

 

[ClintC]

I’m not letting you around my shit.

 

[rc508pir]

This is strictly for defensive style close in use. I have put mil type iron sights on it to keep the weight down. Just want to get back on target quickly.

If by close in defence, you mean home defence, Id ditch any thoughts of using a brake in the house. From shooting simunition from a AK74 inside MOUT houses is very dissorienting. 308 would really ring your bell, even when you know its coming

 

[GC7]

The PWS ones always seemed very effective merely for the fact that they made the firing line loud as fuck at the range. You couldn't even be away from the firing area without earpro since the crack was so sharp and loud.

It sounded completely different than any other brake, and I vaguely recall that it even felt like the rifle pulled slightly forward upon firing.

 

[rockchalk06]

The PWS ones always seemed very effective merely for the fact that they made the firing line loud as fuck at the range. You couldn't even be away from the firing area without earpro since the crack was so sharp and loud.

It sounded completely different than any other brake, and I vaguely recall that it even felt like the rifle pulled slightly forward upon firing.

My Sidewider I had on my .300 PRC was that way. I got complaints from shooters on the opposite end of the bench rows. As the shooter, I didn't get it with Ear Pro. Recoil was less than an AR. My can helps with some recoil, but it kicks like a mule now. Quiet though

 

[Kingfish]

If by close in defence, you mean home defence, Id ditch any thoughts of using a brake in the house. From shooting simunition from a AK74 inside MOUT houses is very dissorienting. 308 would really ring your bell, even when you know its coming

No, I have a completely different setup for in home. I wanted a rifle for outdoors from a few yards out to 200. I have other 308s for mid range and long range. Just wanted something like an AR15, light and quick but with a bigger punch and without an optic to worry about if it gets bumped around.

 

[conditionzero]

My break shakes the cobwebs off boomers balls. Feels great on the shoulder though!

 

[ClintC]

I tend to piss people off when the 50 comes out. The brake knocks shit off the table to the right and left of you.

 

[JEVapa]

I don't consider brakes or compensators as rude or inconsiderate. People are going to a range to shoot loud things. If someone is offended or upset because someone next to them is louder than they are, or think they are, then go somewhere else. A lot of people who complain about loud shit to the left and right of them, don't realize that their shit is probably pretty close to being just as loud. They're just behind the blast so it doesn't seem that loud. Stand next to it and see. At any rate, I try to shoot suppressed as often as possible; unsuppressed is uncivilized in any regard.